Life as an ExPat

A funny thing happens when you are placed into a foreign environment without the comforts of your own normalcy or the tools and support systems that you come to rely upon for dealing with stressful situations, or even daily life.  It is very animalistic, you adapt and survive, or you end up miserable and counting the days until you return "home."

I have lived somewhat of a nomadic lifestyle, moving several times in the course of my adult life.  And the moving part does get easier every time because new tools and new strategies are developed or honed out of necessity, kind of like evolution.

I knew that moving to a completely foreign culture was going to be difficult, challenging to say the least.  I am lucky to have had a support system in place, one that I can rely upon for virtually anything and I believe this to be unique.

Westerners are a very independent group of people who thrive on the notion of individuality.  I, in particular, have the mentality of "I can do it myself and don't need your help."  Now this is something I have been working on for a long time, and I am getting better at asking for assistance, or at least not being so opposed to it when its offered.  Though I do still need my autonomy or I become a very unhappy person.  In Amman, I have lost a lot of my autonomy and it has been one of the most difficult transitions of my life.  The language barrier is one thing (though getting better) but the cultural barrier is even more tremendously challenging than I ever though it would be.  That is why I am so thankful to have created an expat safety net - something everyone who lives abroad should have, I think.

This safety net consists of a group a other expats from around the world who have been living in Amman for various periods of time (some a couple months, others a couple years, etc.).  The whole expat phenomenon is quite hilarious, actually, but necessary to remain sane at the same time.  The friendships were quite instant and we bonded over the strangest things, and I will share a few with you.

Alcohol is not a big part of the culture here.  In the States, we are drinkers.  We like a glass of wine at night or even a beer with our meals (generally speaking of course) and most social occasions include some sort of alcoholic beverage, right?  Well since alcohol is not a part of the mainstream culture here, you don't necessarily have the tools you might assume would be present in any household.  My group of friends has become fond of a local, Jordanian wine called St. Georges wine.  It is actually quite delicious and we frequently consume it during dinners or other social occasions.  The problem is that there is a shortage of wine keys (wine opening devices) in the region.  The conversation goes something like this:
Person 1: Shall we open the wine?
Person 2: Absolutely!
Person 1: Do you have a wine opener?
Person 2: Shit.
Person 3: Do you have any Christian neighbors?
Person 2: I don't think so.  Lets Google it...

Meanwhile, person 3 and 4 are likely rummaging through the drawers looking for some sort of device to pry out the cork while the other two Google how to open a bottle without a wine key.  There is actually a way to do it using a shoe (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuGfjtBffiE  mind you it is in French...an innovative bunch they are.)  We have yet to try this method, but are bound and determined to master this particular skill.  Another thing to note, alcohol consumption is kind of a no-no in Islam, so most of the liquor stores are owned by Christians (bunch of winos, those Christians).

Needless to say, we always find a way and usually end up prying the cork out of the bottle or using some sort of kitchen gadget to push the cork into the bottle.  Never a dull moment.

The other thing that has been quite entertaining to experience is the Arab toilet.  Now 99% of the places we frequent have very nice bathroom facilities that don't require any special skills to use, but there are some places in which the only option is the dreaded Arab toilet.  You should Google this now.  Another disclaimer, the "Arab toilet" is actually common in other parts of the world as well, so it is not unique to this region.  Have you Googled it yet because if you haven't the next story will seem a bit strange.

Women have a particularly unique problem when having to use an Arab toilet because we don't have the luxury of being able to stand to pee like our male counterparts.  Though I was informed of a device called the SheePee, which allows women some flexibility in this arena.  If you haven't Googled Arab toilet yet, you should know that it consists of a hole in the ground with some cement or tile around it, and a hose.

Strategically, this situation is very challenging for women, particularly if wearing pants or other complicated garments (tights or pantyhose - yeah good luck with that).  So the issue is to get the right angle so you don't end up urinating on yourself or your clothing and at the same time, maintain your balance so you don't fall into the hole.  We have put a lot of thought into this problem and have come up with a few solutions for those women who will have to use such bathroom facilities in the future.
1.) Develop an exercise program that concentrates on the muscles used to squat.
2.) Invent undergarments that can be removed easily (using velcro or something like that) to prevent the dreaded aiming issue.

A new friend recently told us that the trick is to completely squat down when using this particular kind of toilet.  I have yet to try it, but she is a trusted source who has tried various methods and apparently this one works best for her.  We will see.

Regardless of how ridiculous these scenarios might seem, they are very integral to the bonding process and friendship development for expats.  There are particular things you feel more comfortable discussing with individuals from your own culture.  Using the bathroom and opening wine happen to be two of those things.  The other important component to recognize is the process of discovery and experimentation that occurs as a result of being out of your element.  Going through these situations not only makes for good stories, but also builds relationships, trust, and a sense of belonging.  Its nice to know that there are other people struggling with the same things, with the same cultural nuances.  These scenarios are very surface level, but they lead to shared sense of community that is vital for your mental and emotional health when the tradition modes aren't available.

Anyway, I am very thankful to have these people in my life at this particular time and hope that our new friendships last as each of us transitions to new adventures - wherever they may be in this tiny, tiny world.

PS.  I have included links, on the sidebar, to some of my friends doing amazing work and art.  You should check them out.

Passports, Privilege, and Progress

Life is moving along, as it always does, and I am not sure where the time has gone.  Today marks the two month anniversary of my arrival in Amman.  Somedays it feels like I just arrived, and other days like I have been here for years.

Lately, I have been keenly aware of my nationality.  Living in the States, even traveling around the world I am aware of the place from where I come but it doesn’t permeate thorughout the concept of my identity.  I suppose that is because of the culture in which I grew up.  We are very individualistic, Americans that is, and except for defining historical moments, and before major events, we rarely identify ourselves by our nationality first...its usually quite far down the list - from my observation anyway.  I am Amanda, student, daughter, sister, friend, leftist, avid reader, political junkie, lover of languages, travel, and yoga.  In fact, when people ask me where I am from (and to prevent a lengthy explanation of my somewhat nomadic life) I tell them Chicago because that is where I lived and that is where my roots (parents) live. But here, I am an American.

My Arabic is improving, and I can hold a conversation with taxi drivers...they are a talkative group of people....but I am immediately recognized as a foreigner.  The first question they ask (after determining my destination)  is, “where are you from?”  Here is an example of typical conversation:

Cabbie: Where are you from?

Me: Chicago

Cabbie: Oh, America.  What are you doing here?  Are you working or a student?

Me: I am studying Arabic.

Cabbie: Very good.  Are you studying at the University of Jordan?

Me: Yes (I am not really but its easier than saying I am taking lessons from a private tutor)

Cabbie: Oh very good.  Are you married?

Me: Yes

Cabbie: To an American?

Me: No, to a Jordanian

Cabbie: Where is he from?  What does he do?

Its about this time where I begin to go into an explanation of what my fake Jordanian husband does.  Sometimes he is a student, finishing his studies.  Other times he is business person or even in international development.  The next question is usually, “Do you have any children?” and I say no, we are finishing our studies or something else.  More than once I have been asked whether my fake Jordanian husband is a Muslim and if I am a Christian.  And thankfully, usually I am close to my destination at this point and can stop the line of questioning there.

Disclaimer: I was told to tell taxi drivers I am married to a Jordanian because they are likely to back off if they think I have a husband from the region.

Normally, folks here are very welcoming once they find out what my nationality is, but it makes me incredibly uncomfortable.  I suppose this is a cultural idiosyncrasy I have to get used to.  

I am also singled out as an American at the office, and am being used for my very American sounding name.  I am doing this willingly, but it makes me incredibly aware of the privilege and the responsibility that comes with being Amanda the American.  Because I am from the States, people here - particularly in the professional realm - believe me to have more credibility than an Arab.  This is absolutely untrue, of course, and truly baffling to see in action.  People respond to an email coming from my email address but won’t respond to people who might have an Arab sounding name even though, in all reality, I have no idea what is going on most of the time.  Good thing I am fairly well versed in bullshitting - thanks to a long career in retail and formal training in the art of philosophy.  (Philosophy is much more than bullshitting, btw, but has granted me the training necessary to be able to think on my toes.)

And the final situation that made me feel all red, white, and blue was when I was asked to help someone get a visa to work in the States.  This individual is an Arab, not from Jordan, and doesn’t speak a word of English but I was going to help him fill out the application online and do whatever else needed to be done to get the process started for his visa.  Apparently there was a bit of a misunderstanding because he left his passport on my desk one morning, expecting that I could get him a visa.  Let me clarify - he believed that I could...as an American....pull a visa out of who knows where, stamp it and TADAA!  Welcome to the U.S.  

Needless to say, I could not help this man, but it was a wake up call (along with all the other scenarios that make me feel like a star on the flag), in that there are still many people around the world who have this perception of Americans that is unrealistic and idealistic....think typical American movie - yeah thats how we are perceived.  Well let me quote a movie that is more accurate for my situation, truly a pillar of my generation: "you ain't got no job, you ain't got no money.."  well most of you know the rest, and if you don't, it will get lost in translation, trust me.

I understood before how blessed and privileged I am for not only having the friends and family I do, but also for having been born in the United States.  I don't necessarily enjoy being reminded of it on a daily, sometimes hourly basis, but I guess that is the nature of privilege sometimes.  

So in honor of Halloween tomorrow, I will not be Amanda the American but instead I will be Amandita the Latina.  It will be an interesting social experiment, don’t you think?  

P.S.  Below is a picture of the citadel at night and the moon.  Truly an incredible sight, though the picture does not do it justice.

Daily Life

It seems though it has been forever since my last post, and I guess it has.  I seem to have been consumed by the day to day existence in Amman, though I can't exactly tell you what I have been doing!

Last week was the tour de markets.  We went to the Balad, which is the downtown, and one of the older parts of Amman.  Balad is filled with people bustling through the streets and unique smells - coffee, spices, and fruits to name a few.  There are scarves and knick knacks galore, and although we didn't spend much time there, I am looking forward to going back to do some more exploring.

Then onto Rainbow Street - one of the most famous streets in Amman.  Home to trendy coffee shops and expatriates, this street was much more low key than the Balad.  Graffiti artists were tagging the wall in front of the British Council, which was quite amazing.  There isn't much graffiti here, not like in other parts of the world I have seen, and the buildings are often the same beige color, so the lively and vibrant color scheme seen below is a nice change.

Graffiti artists "tagging" the wall in front of the British Council.

Another part of the graffiti wall.

Then of course we did the tourist thing and took pictures of Amman from the lookout.  Though I don't feel like much of a tourist anymore since I can give directions to the cabbies in Arabic - which is a feat in and of itself.  Just a word of warning if you ever plan to move or visit this part of the region, taxi drivers do not know the names of streets.  This is partly because streets have two names because they tried to change things, unifying them, but it didn't work out.  So in order to get from point A to point B, you must have landmarks.  So I live by the Ramada hotel and Wahbeh Tamari school in Shmeisani.  And if that doesn't work, thenI really have to break out my newly acquired Arabic directional vocabulary.

View of Amman from a lookout on Rainbow street.

Another view of Amman from Rainbow street.

And then we finally landed at Suuq Jara, a small artisan market with a lot of wonderful and beautiful pieces of jewelry, art, and other fun things.  When I was there last, I bought a painting, but this time I opted for accessories, because I love them.  So below is a picture of the scarf with scarf bling and matching earrings that I splurged on - though both were less than $15.  And to boot, they were giving out samples of watermelon juice....umm delicious.

After purchasing goodies at the market, we continued on Rainbow street and stopped in a little book store.  My tutor recommended getting some children's books to help with my Arabic, so low and behold, I found some children's books.  And to top it all off, the bookstore had a coffee shop, so I ordered myself a cafe Americano and was almost in heaven.  Heaven arrived at our next stop - the ice cream store.  Between jewelry, books, coffee, and ice cream, I couldn't have asked for much more.

Other than exploring markets, I have been exploring the work culture here by doing some immersion experimentation at my adoptive Jordanian family's (hope they don't mind that I adopted them) business.  I think I will leave those observations for another blog though.

Along with cultural immersion, shopping, and markets, I have found time to create and try some new recipes as well as meet and hang out with new expat friends.  They hail from around the globe  and it is truly incredible how many expats there are here.  Everywhere I go, there they are.  I suppose they are saying the same thing in their heads when they see me.  Me and my newly acquired expat friends try to see each other once a week for dinner, it is nice and a good break from the thinking in too many languages thing.  How exhausting!

Well, back to my children's book....I am reading one about a monkey now....I think his name is Fahman.

Salaam

Out and About in Amman

Amman is a wonderful city full of culture and life, though much different from my beloved Chicago.  I am fortunate to have my own personal tour guide and expert to guide in the exploration of my new, temporary city.  My dear friend, Mohammad, took me to a wonderful, little artisan market last weekend, Jara Market.  Full of gorgeous jewelry (I refrained from buying any, surprisingly) and local goods and crafts, the market was booming with people, smells, and scenery.  I fell in love with a painting of the Jordanian flower ( I cannot remember the name of it to save my life) and could not refrain from buying it, even though I know it will be a challenge to transport it back to the States.

Painting I bought at Suuq Jara

Though the streets of Amman were pleasant and peaceful, the air around us was heavy, as were our hearts. Last Friday, the Palestinian President, Mahmoud Abbas, moved forward with the Palestinian bid for recognition/a spot in the UN.  Unfortunately, President Obama has already indicated (with a speech that was devastatingly biased and full of Zionist propaganda) that the US will veto this bid.  I am unable to express my sadness and disappointment in my President, nor am I able to accurately express the importance of the Palestinian position.  I hope Mohammad will be able to better explain the historical and future significance of this more eloquently than I would ever be able to.

In the meantime, if you would like to learn more about the true history of the conflict, I have provided some links and resources below.

Handala - Another popular sight in the market, this cartoon is another representation of the Palestinian situation/cause/condition.  I encourage you to check it out.
Occupation 101 - A documentary created by the organization If Americans Knew.  This is a very good analysis of the history of the conflict, outlined in a very practical manner.
IfAmericansKnew.org - The everything you need to know place to go about the statistics, etc regarding the Palestinian/Israeli conflict.

This weekend, I hope to be able to catch a sunset.  From what I remember, they are incredible.  And coming soon (inshallah) Arabic food and cooking lessons.

Salaam

The Language of Poetry

People express themselves, their emotions, in ways that are fascinating and continually changing.  10 years ago, who would have thought you would be reading my blog as I sit on my couch in Amman and you are (likely) thousands of miles away.

There is one form of expression I admire most, that I am drawn to no matter what the origin, language, or culture.  Poetry, the profoundly radical, intimate synthesis of words, thoughts, and ideas conveys life in a way that is sacred and beautiful.

The Arab world is filled with poetry.  The best example of this is in everyday language.  In English, our interactions and verbal communications are very blunt and to the point.  We say hello, good morning, goodbye, bless you.  Very basic but universal.  This is not true in Arabic and though I cannot justifiably translate the expressions into English I can give you an example.
Person 1: Good Morning - saba al khayer (good morning)
Person 2 Response: - saba al nur (morning of light), or saba al ward (morning of the rose), or saba al yasmin (morning of the jasmine)

In Arabic, you can find infinite numbers of ways to respond to a simple phrase in words that are poetic and full of meaning.

It is no surprise that Arabic poetry is famous for its eloquence and beauty.  The play on words serves an important purpose, politically and culturally.  Palestinians, in particular, have used poetry to express the plight of their struggle and the frustration with over 60 years of struggle.

That being said, I have chosen four of my favorite Palestinian/Arab poets and hope you will check them out.  Darwish is, by far, the most popular Palestinian poet and he and Fadwa Tuqan are from an older generation.  Suheir Hammad and Remi Kanazi are current spoken word artists and poets of Palestinian heritage, but from the States.
Mahmoud Darwish
Suheir Hammad
-From Ted Talks Suheir Hammad: Poems of war, peace, women, power
Fadwa Tuqan
Remi Kanazi - Poetic Injustice
-From You Tube/Grit TV: The Do's and Don'ts of Palestine
-From You Tube/PalFest 2010: Coexistence

Lights, Camera, Wedding?

Saturday I experienced my first Jordanian wedding and what an experience it was.  Occasions, such as weddings, can often be awkward as people from every corner of the individual's/ couple's life converge under one roof (or sky in this case) to celebrate.  What usually happens is that you end up sitting at a table where don't know anyone, occasionally looking at your table mates and smiling with little to say after the preliminary introductions (apparently this is a universal phenomenon), eating mediocre food while downing as many drinks from the open bar as is possible and ending up on the dance floor, drunkenly flailing about to 90s remixes provided by a DJ who refuses to take requests.  What a strange social experiment.  Generally, this has been my experience, with a few exceptions of course :)

Observation 1 - What time is it?
We were the first to arrive at the wedding, literally the first.  I am told this is unusual and that the bride and groom (families included) do normally arrive on time, but in this case they were at least a half hour late arriving.  This means that the actual celebration did not start for an hour after the original time.  Hmm.  Needless to say, the outdoor venue had a beautiful view of Amman, so it wasn't wasted time in the least.

Observation 2 - Appropriate Attire
I was very nervous about my wardrobe for this event.  Weddings, generally speaking, in the States are quite informal and I can usually get by with the standard black dress, sundress, or even pants and a nice shirt but Jordanian culture is more formal than the States and this is particularly true when it comes to weddings.  Thankfully I have a wonderful friend (thank you Huda!) who took me shopping and acted as my guide for picking out the appropriate attire. 

I was quite intrigued when the guests began to arrive.  The men were dressed well, in a suit and tie or trousers and a nice shirt.  The ladies were all over the place, some wearing the traditional long dress with long sleeves and hijab.  Others were in evening dresses, all fancy and stuff.  And then there were those who were dressed for a booty club complete with hair weaves (I saw at least 2-3 with extensions/weaves, usually blond).

The diversity in attire was striking but truthfully, we have that in the states too.  (Though the makeup is frequently a bit too much.)  And all in all, the ladies looked beautiful, especially the sisters of the groom. 

Observation 3 - Lights, Camera, Action
I was unprepared for the production portion of this wedding.  The spectacle was bigger than many independent films in terms of photography, cinematography, and fireworks.  Yes, fireworks.  Not only fireworks in the sky, but roman candle like apparatuses(apparati?) surrounding the stage as if it were a KISS concert.  I wonder how many brides' dress catch fire because of incidents such as these.  Massive amounts of hairspray coupled with flames is a recipe for an interesting pyrotechnical display.  Needless to say, this bride escaped the sparks, unscathed.

Observation 4 - Dancing
Oh the dancing....everyone dances, or at least claps.  I was even convinced to get on stage and shake it, though very briefly.  This was one of my favorite parts.  In the States, dancing is usually reserved for the very bold or the very drunk, but in this case everyone dances and has a good time.


Observation 5 - Open Juice Bar
No alcohol....well almost.  There was some flask-like action happening under the table but all in all, no alcohol.  There was, however, an open juice and soda bar.  Strange but the fact that people had a great time without alcohol is refreshing. 


What a great experience, and it is quite different from what we are used to in the West.  The actual ceremony, from what I am told, usually takes place in a more private setting such as a house.  An Imam is brought in and the vows are said.  The wedding people refer to is what we would consider the reception in the States. 

So now that I have one Jordanian wedding under my belt, I feel more prepared for the next one.

Salaam.

Settling In

The apartment search is over!  Two days ago I moved into a lovely apartment in the Amman neighborhood of Shmeisani.  Located in one of the older parts of Shmeisani, this apartment is simply adorable with a fireplace, large garden and patio, a lemon tree, solar heated water, two bathrooms, and two bedrooms.  My roomate, Rebekka, and I are settling in, learning the ins and outs of apartment life in Amman.  I have included photos below...

Living Room with fireplace and access to back patio

Dining Room

Large kitchen!

Kitchen - Stove, teeny tiny washing machine and short fridge

Small bathroom

Large bathroom

Fancy, stand up shower

My room - take 1

My room - take 2

 I love the cuisine here, unfortunately it does not love me.....well part of it anyway.  Pita or some sort of bread product is included with every meal and for those of you who know me realize that this is problematic.  Eating a gluten free diet is challenging enough in the States where I have access to gluten free goods in most places, including many restaurants.  Here, not so much but it can be found.  I got the down low on where they keep the gluten free products and went shopping.  Incredibly, I found some of my favorite and most treasured ingredients, at a pretty penny mind you, but nonetheless I am ready to start cooking!

That is all for now....Rebekka and I will finish tidying up the apartment and making it feel more like home.

Until next time...

Observations, Take 1

Tomorrow marks my first full week in Amman, and it has been quite a fascinating experiment, one that observation junkies would find perpetually stimulating.  Though I was aware of the cultural environment of this region, it is a whole other animal to be completely immersed in it.  I started this blog because I realized there were misconceptions and an extreme lack of understanding about the dynamics of the region.  The idealist (who still exists somewhere deep down inside) in me wanted to share a more raw and unfiltered image of the Arab world, in particular the Jordanian world.  I have found that the misconceptions and suspicions go both ways.

Arab hospitality is truly second to none and I encourage everyone to travel to the region to experience it for themselves.  And the family unit is the nucleus of every person's life.  Life revolves around the family, immediate and extended which is not unlike my own family but I know this isn't the case for many people in the States.  It is refreshing to see such a close knit microcosm of people (though sometimes not so micro....the families are huge!) but it does also present issues.  Tribal mentality seems to draw families close together in a protective bubble but I also believe it creates a fear of things or people outside that bubble.  Perhaps fear isn't the correct word, skepticism might be more accurate, but nonetheless exists.

I am a foreigner and an American and that label comes with a lot of baggage, not just here but globally and particularly in second and third world countries.  The people I have met thus far, outside of my friend(s) and their family, have been incredibly welcoming but full of questions.  They are wondering why I am here and why I am studying the Palestinian situation in Jordan.  I know they are fishing and I know they are skeptical of my intentions, perhaps that I am working for a governmental organization or something much worse (who knows!) but after I explain myself they become even more eager to get to know me and speak about the issues more openly.

Living in the States, we aren't often directly impacted by our foreign policies (other than the pocket book), unless of course a member of our family or a friend(s) is serving in the military.  We see fleeting images on the news (usually biased and filtered) and some of us even study it in the classroom, but rarely do we feel the impact of the decisions our leaders make.  I am both excited and saddened at the same time.  Excited to be able to start building a bridge between two very different cultures - though the impact may be very, very small - and saddened because I don't feel this bridge will have any effect on the bigger picture, on the mechanism that negotiates foreign policy and the media, but truly that is not a task for a single person.

Regardless, I feel this exercise is necessary and am blessed for having the opportunity to participate and the resources (my wonderful Jordanian friends and family) to guide me through it.

I haven't taken many pictures yet, but will do so soon.  It seems I am always inside at sunrise and sunset, but I know from past experience they are amazing.

Until next time....

Salaam.

Arrival and Eid

I arrived in Amman Wednesday evening without much difficulty.  Nothing much has changed in the airport since I was here last.  While going through customs I had a conversation with a nice young lady from Iceland who is here in Amman for 5 months.  Her family had come with her to get a feel for where their daughter would be spending the next few months and as it turns out, she doesn't have an apartment yet so we are in the process of looking for something together.  It is truly amazing how a simple conversation can lead to something else....in this case, possibly a roomate - or at least a friend here in Amman.

I am currently staying at the Nefertiti Hotel, which is quite suitable and easy on the pocketbook.  The only strange thing is the "shower" which consists of two nozels and a hose, but all in all it works.  I have breakfast in the mornings made by Abu Imrad (spelling?) who is a very kind man who also showed me the proper way to make Turkish coffee.

Eid was in full swing when I landed and there were hoards of people on the street.  Traffic has been disastrous, even worse than Chicago traffic (if you can believe that!) but things have eased up in the last day or so.  

I was lucky enough to be able to observe and participate in the traditional Eid festivities, which are quite different from the holiday celebrations I am used to.  Of course there are feasts and wonderful meals but there are also visits from relatives.  The visits are somewhat short with folks just catching up, but everyone sits in the sitting room (not sure what else to call it) and they are served Arabic coffee and a sweet pastry.  The talking continues for a bit and they are offered chocolate and that is about it!  One of the things that was very different for me was that the visitors would not let you know ahead of time they would be coming, they would just show up.  In the States, that probably wouldn't fly.  It was very interesting to see it all come together - the doorbell would ring and everyone would move as if they were performing some sort of act.

I am enjoying the food, but am a bit frustrated with the language, or perhaps the lack of my ability to speak it at this point!  Lessons will start soon and I have already picked up quite a bit.  

Things should settle down soon and I will get a better idea of the atmosphere in Amman without the madness of a holiday.

Salaam

The Stupidest Airport Ever....and the Grand Departure

I have completed the first leg of my trip and have arrived at the most ridiculous airport I have been to thus far in my 29 years on this Earth.  Truthfully, I thought Charles de Gaulle in Paris, as well as Atlanta, were despicable excuses for airports, but there is a new leader for the most craptastic airport in the world competition.  London Heathrow is large, inefficient and impossible to navigate without proper GPS.  I had to go through security - though my checked bags did not (hoping they make it to Amman on their own) - even though I had just come straight from the airplane.  This was not customs and immigration friends, no, this was straight up security.  They didn't even check my passport.  Weird.  And this was after I walked 12 miles (obviously an exaggeration) from the arrival gate to the random-middle-of-the-airport security checkpoint.

Other than the fact that I am in the airport that is front runner for stupidest airport ever....and even though it took me 30 minutes to figure out what kind of plug adapter to use to charge my lap top (because god forbid the UK use the same adapters as the rest of Europe - island mentality), the day and trip were quite pleasant.

I have been packing for a week, so this morning consisted of last minute shoving-things-into-bags and transcribing important stuff from my 4 lb Arabic language book.  See, Lucy decided the notebook I used to take notes from class would be a delicious snack and so she ate a good majority of my Arabic notes.  So...I quickly photo copied and transcribed all the important vocabulary and grammar points from the book.  Not an easy task but  I couldn't justify taking a 4 lb book with me, I was already having difficulties standing up with the overloaded bags I had!

I then said bon voyage to my favorite Maltese puppy and met mom and dad for lunch.  See photo shoot below.

The flight from O'Hare to Heathrow was fairly smooth.  I have never been on such a big plane (747-double decker) and I was in the very last row....which is the seat I chose but I don't think I understood the magnitude of the plane - woooweee it was big.  Regardless, it was a great flight with decent food.  (Though they gave us a spork to eat our yogurt.....hmm)  I even sat next to a really nice gentleman from UIC traveling to London for a study abroad.  Got to see Kung Fu Panda 2 as well....truly the highlight of the trip so far.

So I suppose that is enough random information for one blog post.  I am going to wander aimlessly around this airport for the next (I don't even know what time it is) maybe 2 hours?  There are people sleeping, but I don't think I am going to join them.  I'm not going to take any chances of over-sleeping and missing my flight.  (Shout out to one of my friends who did this on a recent trip!)

Off to Amman!

The Puppy is Packed....and Other Business

Packing

It really isn't easy to know what I will be in the mood to wear in 6 days, let alone 6 months.  Needless to say, my bags are packed and I am, hopefully, ready to go.  Each weighs just a shade under 50 lbs, which doesn't include the 6.5 lb Maltese that wants to come with me (see pic below).  Packing is serious business and not for the faint of heart.  It requires a certain finesse, a particular eloquence that only comes with experience and Google.  (Who doesn't use Google for everything at this point, really?)  Packing cubes help too.  If you are a frequent traveler and neurotic, like me, I would recommend investing in packing bags.  I got mine for a very reasonable price on www.ebags.com, and they help to organize your clothing, various cords and wires, and do wonders for socks and underwear. (I don't know about all of you, but it seems that every time I travel I lose at least 3 socks and 2 pairs of underwear.  Apparently I have a bad case of underwear/sock/suitcase gnomes.)  Regardless, I highly recommend the packing cubes....they do wonders for organizing suitcases!  And what a relief to have the packing done.   My only hope is that the scale at the airport and the one I used at home are relatively similar.....

Lucy is ready to go!

Other Business

*Disclaimer - The following comments are political in nature and might be controversial to the naked eye.  Upon further scrutiny, the comments and resources below might actually help to understand the history and current events taking place.  YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!

On another, more serious note,  I am writing this blog to not only keep my friends and family up to date on my whereabouts and adventures, but also to aid in the understanding of my research subject.  There is so much misinformation and misunderstanding present in our mass media.  It is vital to the understanding of this 60 plus year long conflict to go beyond the mass media and to dig into independent, alternative sources.  I hope to present you with a few and hope that you will seek out alternate sources on your own.  The internet is a wonderful tool for research and discovery, so use it, with caution and skepticism of course.

I recommend watching the documentary Occupation 101.  Well organized and concise, this documentary explains the history of the Palestinian expulsion and the real reason(s) behind the conflict that rages on today.  The organization that created this documentary, If Americans Knew, is a wonderful resource for dissecting the conflict, with statistics from both sides (Israeli and Palestinian) presented in a very straight forward manner that is fairly easy to understand.

The first thing to understand about this conflict is that anything you hear from most U.S. media sources is going to be filtered and have a bias in favor of the Israeli state.  This is because Israel has the largest lobby in the United States and because they have marketing campaigns promoting Israel and defaming the Palestinian leadership and people.

I feel like I need to further clarify/explain what I mean when I say Israel because it is frequently misconstrued as a slight against an entire population when that certainly isn't the case.  When I talk about Israel I am referring to the state, policies, and protocol but not the Jewish people as a whole.  In fact, there are many wonderful and amazing organizations headed by Israeli Jews that are either anti-occupation or anti-zionist.  I will talk about these organizations at a later date.  

Anyway, the reason I feel compelled to address these controversial issues is because the history and plight of the Palestinian people is directly related to the reason I am going to Jordan for 7 months.  I am going to listen to the stories of Palestinian women living in the camps of Jordan, to figure out what opportunities are available for them and what opportunities are lacking.  I do this, not with the goal of solving their issues (I gave up that "save the world" mentality many years ago), but rather because I feel that my role is to bring their stories to my audience, to my colleagues, to my friends and family in the hopes that there will be a greater understanding and awareness of what the reality is for a population of our fellow human beings.  All of this requires a brief, unabridged and unfiltered history lesson.

Ok, I am off my soap box for now.  If you have any questions or comments, please submit them in the comments section below.  

Salam!

The Final Countdown Part 2: Packing, Unemployment, and My Own Morality

Now approaching a week until my departure date I am beginning to feel a sense of urgency and anxiety about the preparation portion of my adventure.  Running around ensuring that every aspect of my existence in the United States is taken care of is exhausting in and of itself, let alone preparing for 7 months living in a foreign land without the comforts of home, or at least the familiar.  Not to mention that my brand new, body bag of a suitcase broke and I couldn't find my receipt to return it so I had to print out my credit card statement to prove that I bought....lets just say there is never a dull moment.  Regardless, the nice folks at TJ Maxx allowed me to exchange the suitcase, so crisis avoided on that front!

Even more nerve-wracking is the the fact that I willingly quitting my job in the middle of a double dip recession (or whatever this economic-psycho-social phenomenon is).  As of Friday, I was officially unemployed.  The rational part of my brain is in a tailspin of sorts, continually reminding the not-so-rational part that quitting a stable job in the middle of the worst economic crisis in my lifetime to move 7000 miles away for half a year with no source of guaranteed or stable income, might not be the most responsible thing to do.

But the most heart pumping, nerve pulling yet fascinating part of the preparation process is coming eye to eye with my own mortality.  Death, final wishes and arrangements are not things most 29 year olds willingly think about - that's not to say that they shouldn't.  Needless to say, I have had to think about things such as: emergency evacuation, repatriation of remains, and my final wishes.  I guess the benefit of thinking about ones own mortality is the reality check, or better yet, the perspective realignment that happens when we have to think about our own deaths or the deaths of our loved ones.

Truth be told, the fear of death is often times a control issue..  We cannot control when someone's time is up, including our own.  All those ridiculous cliches ( I hate cliches, they are the bane of my existence as a writer.) about "live life to the fullest" or "never go to bed angry" have become popular cliches for a reason!  Yeah, life might be really crappy when you look at the small details, but if you open your eyes, your mind, and your heart to the big picture, for most of us it really isn't that bad at all.  In fact, it is kind of badass. (For those of you unfamiliar with the term "badass".....its a good thing.)

That's enough thinking about death for now, time to get back to living life and packing...uggghh!

I much prefer Rilke's words about life and death to the cliches mentioned above.

Death Experience
Ranier Maria Rilke
translation: Cliff Crego


We know nothing of this going away, that 
shares nothing with us.  We have no reason,
whether astonishment , and love or hate,
to display Death, whom a fantastic mask
of tragic lament astonishingly disfigures.
Now the world is still full of roles we play
as long as we make sure, that, like it or not,
Death plays too, although he does not please us.
But when you left, a strip of reality broke
upon the stage through the very opening
through which you vanished: Green, true green,
true sunshine, true forest.
We continue our play, picking up gestures
now and then, and anxiously reciting 
that which was difficult to learn; but you're far away,
removed out of our performance existence,
sometimes overcomes us, as an awareness
descending upon us of this very reality,
so that for a while we play Life,
rapturously, not thinking of any applause.



Check out this episode of Re: Sound that aired Saturday, 19 August.
Episode #86: The Death Show


PS.  I want to be cremated and I want Redemption Song by Bob Marley to be played at my final life celebration party.

The Final Countdown (Including a Crash Course in Geography)

With my last day of work less than 12 hours away and my flight 10 days away it would seem that I am in the final stages of preparation to make my grand voyage to the Hashemite Kingdom.

The goodbyes have begun and so has the process of explaining the purpose of this trip and the research I plan to conduct while there.  Needless to say, dissecting the history of the Arab world and the roots of the Palestinian/Israeli conflict is quite difficult - particularly for a novice such as myself.  The complexity of the region and the long, rich history is incredibly intimidating.

So as I move through this journey I will do my best to contextualize things and attempt to put them into perspective.

And what better time than now to start that contextualization.  Consider this post your crash course in the geography and demography of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan.

____________________________________________________

Jordan is located in the Fertile Crescent, bordering Saudi Arabia to the South, Iraq to the East, Syria to the North and the West Bank to the West.  Jordan is primarily a desert climate and according to the CIA factbook (I can't believe they allowed me to access that website either!) the size is slightly smaller than Indiana. (https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/jo.html#top)  They have no water.  Well they have some but hardly any fresh water and "the only sea they have is dead."  (I heard this several times while in Jordan.  The Dead Sea is really, really salty...not good for drinking water but great for floating and for mud masks and bath salts.

The population is about 6.5 million and the capital is Amman - this is where I will be staying.  Jordan is a Constitutional Monarchy and the current king is King Abdullah II and his wife is Queen Rania.  They don't really have any resources but they do have stability, which is immensely important to the region.  Jordan hosts about 2 million Palestinian refugees and about 500,000 Iraqi guests, displaced from "Operation Iraqi Freedom."

The people speak Arabic and are primarily Muslim - though there are small Christian populations present.

Some noteworthy tourist destinations are: Petra (Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom was filmed here!), Wadi Rum, and Aqaba.  And coming soon......a Star Trek Theme Park!!!  King Abdullah is a big fan and even made a cameo appearance in a Star Trek episode some years back.  Not only will this be the biggest Trekkie destination in the world, but it will also be run on green energy.  Check it out:

$1.5 Billion Star Trek Theme Park in Jordan to Run on Green Energy

Below is a map of Jordan and further below are more links if you want to check out more of what the Hashemite Kingdom has to offer.

Ciao!

____________________________________________________

The above map was taken from the World Atlas website.  Check it out and the links below to find out more about the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan.

Jordan - Wikipedia

History of Jordan 

And in case you want to come visit me, check out these travel websites:

Lonely Planet

Trip Advisor

A So Called Writer

I decided to utilize this spring break to launch a freelance writing project, to stimulate a different part of my brain, to begin to re-mold and re-shape my creative writing voice and technical abilities, skills I once had before joining the ranks as a graduate student.  (To say I am disappointed in the graduate school writing environment would be an enormous understatement.  It is not only oppressively drab, but unfortunately scientific and unpleasant.)

I came across a website that at the surface level seemed to be quite heavenly for those of us so called writers who truly have no idea what we are doing.  Immediately I went to the section on International Politics, after all this is what I know best, and began to peruse the topics-which were quite diverse and some, very well written.  Delving even further into the site I clicked on the section on the Middle East to explore the topics and to get a better feel for the political environment of the site.  (Disclaimer.  I guess now would be a good time to mention that I had just listened to two hour long lectures by the great and wonderful Dr. Noam Chomsky regarding the various crises in the Middle East and in particular the situation in Gaza.)

I was immediately bombarded with not one, not two, but three ads for the International Fellowship of Christians and Jews, which stated: Protect Peace in the Middle East, Show Your Support for Israel, Click Here.  If I were a cat, let's just say I would have met my maker many lives ago.  I clicked on the ad and was taken to another website that offered, among other things, a free U.S./Israel flag pin.  Interesting, I thought.  Ok well that is not what I really thought but I am trying to keep it clean kids.

Needless to say, I will not be beginning my freelance writing career on this website.  You see, it's not that I am anti-Jewish or anti-semitic (although this phenomenon deserves more attention).  I am, however, anti-taking "other" people's shit -which in this case would mean land, dignity, basic human rights-and then crying foul when they want it back.  What makes me even more angry is that the people who placed this ad have the audacity to advertise about their friendship with the cool, powerful, rich kid on the block (the U.S.) and ask for monetary donations so they can continue to take these "other" people's shit.  Bully.

I realize that anyone who has money can advertise on these websites and I am fully aware that I live in as well as actively participate in the neo-liberal, capitalist machine that is the world today.  But perhaps I have expectations about certain disciplines that operate within the machine.  Maybe I had hoped that there is a writing forum out there that promotes objectivity or at least a balanced approach to citizen journalism.  Maybe I hoped the Israeli lobby hadn't infiltrated everywhere in these United States.  Perhaps I still have an archaic belief that writing is a sacred art and that writers, editors, and others within the discipline have a certain responsibility to work to maintain balance and as much objectivity as possible.  Apparently I am delusional.

I suppose I have been living in graduate-student-landia for too long.  Though I don't consider myself an idealist as I am much too jaded and cynical.  Regardless, I will not be submitting anything else to that site and have instead chosen to articulate my feelings and frustrations on this blog.  So much for my so called freelance writing career.  Back to blogging for now.